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Author Topic: need help forming .280 ross from .375 ruger cases  (Read 695 times)
Marc_Stokeld
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« on: January 20, 2017, 10:47:28 PM »

i am a long time reloader, but brand new to the .280 ross. i was wondering if i could get any advice or pointers when it came to forming ,280 from .375 ruger. can it be formed as simply as running the ruger case through the ross die, or do i need intermediate steps? if so, what are they and what additional forming dies do i need?

will the necks need to thinned or annealed afterwards?

should any prep work be done on the .375 case before beginning?

i have read the behemoth of a reloading thread on this forum, but it started 7 years ago and too much has changed since then for me to add a new post on the end. from where i sit it looked liked starting a new thread about reloading .375 ruger brass in this current time of NO .280 ross brass would be the best thing to do to help me and other newcomers to the round

thanks for your help!
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rbolt709
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« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2017, 10:44:37 AM »

i used 275 H&H brass ran it trough the sizing die and trim to proper length.The 275 H&H case is very close to the 280 ross
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admin
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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2017, 06:31:01 PM »

.275 H&H brass - how easy to find and how expensive?
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rbolt709
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« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2017, 06:42:35 PM »

i got mine from prophet river,not cheap if i remember but high quality brass. Tradeex has 375 H&H brass  100 count for 135 so thats not bad .i think it would be the same case size as the 275 only a larger diamater  projectile
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Brno8x57
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« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2017, 09:27:46 PM »

I haven't used 375 Ruger as a parent case for 280 Ross.  My first attempt at loading for the 280 Ross was just this month.  I picked up some new Hornady 300H+H brass to use as the parent for the 280 Ross cases.
I have reloaded for a long time including for a wildcat cartridge (340Gibbs) that I need to fire-form from 30-06.  Followed a similar process to make 280 Ross.  I had initially just resized the 300 H+H and stoked the brass with light charges.  Then I thought better of it and pulled the bullets and started over.

Here is what I did to make 280 Ross from new 300H+H.
1- trim 300 H+H cases to 2.6 inches
2 camfer case mouth
3 install 30 cal expander on the decapping rod in the 280 die
4 lube case and inside case mouth- run it through the die -  you will have a 280 ross case with a 30 cal neck
5 install 28 cal expander on decapping rod in the die
6 re-set the die so it is about 1/8 to 3/16 inch higher in the press- should be a gap of 1/8 to 3-16 between shell holder and the bottom of die
7 run 1 case through the die again- the neck will be 280 for about 2/3 to 3/4 of its length and then will remain at 30 cal just above the shoulder- This bump, in essence a false shoulder, is what will hold your case firmly between the bolt face and the chamber when fire forming. Feed a case into your rifle (unprimed).  You should feel resistance but bolt head should turn and lock.  If not, re-set the sizing die lower(reduce gap between die and shell holder) until the brass will feed into the chamber with resistance and bolt will lock up.
8 Re size the rest of your cases.
9 prime cases- load with 13 grains of 700x powder-
10 fill remainder of each case right up to the case mouth with cream of wheat- stuff a wad of Kleenex in the end to hold it in there
11 go to range . carefully feed each case into chamber and fire down range- you now have fire formed brass
12 Trim, resize and reload your brass again as you normally would with a starting load ( I am using 52 grains of IMR 4350 behind 150 gr bullets)
13 fire these rounds
14 anneal, trim, re-size and reload

I have seen different suggestions on how to go about fire forming cases. Some suggest trimming parent brass to length, resizing in the 280 die, stuffing a long bullet like a 175 gr Hornady RN into the case over a starting load and seating the bullet far enough out to jam into the lands.  This process will work as well but I have a preference for the Cream of Wheat method.

The one thing I noticed about the 300H+H brass is that it re-sized very easily because of the similar taper of the case walls as compared to 280 Ross.  Some have used 7mm rem mag as parent but it ends up too short (2.5 inches).  Others suggest 300 Win Mag.  Easy to get and cheaper than most because it is so common.  But there is a lot of case to squeeze down to 280 Ross dimensions.
 
I have a 280 Ross die with a crack in it which I am sure is the result of resizing something really big into 280 Ross. 
As stated at the outset, I have no experience with using 375 Ruger to form 280 Ross.  Hopefully your 375 Ruger brass will re-size easily. Once you have it squeezed down to a 280 Ross case, the rest is pretty easy.


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rbolt709
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« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2017, 07:24:35 AM »

thats some very good info there .Never tried the thing with the 30 cal expander and and then sizeing down to 280 creating a shoulder and fire forming with powder and cream of wheat and tissue.
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pitted bore
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« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2017, 10:08:17 AM »

Marc_Stokeld-

Responding to your question on using Ruger 375 brass.  Five years ago I made a similar inquiry here.  Forum member HPC responded with a very helpful post, including an image that is still accessible.  You may find it similarly helpful.

Here's a link to that short thread: Which 375 Ruger brass for forming 280 Ross?

Some followup notes: I used Hornady 375 Ruger Basic brass to form 280 Ross cases, and encountered multiple difficulties.  These profblems were caused principally because I did not have the intermediate case-forming dies as described in HPC's reply to me. The RCBS FL sizing die that came with the purchase of my rifle was badly mismatched to my rifle's chamber.  That die set back the case shoulder excessively, resulting in case head separations on the first or second firing.

The problems eventually were solved.  However, Hornady 375 RCM Basic brass now appears to be unavailable through retail purchase.
 
About 4 years ago I had a lengthy phone conversation with the gentleman who owns the CH4D die company, who has worked with 280 Ross rifles.  At his recommendation, I began to use 300 Winchester Magnum brass to form 280 Ross cases.  After lubing the 300 WM brass with Imperial Die Wax, a single pass through the FL Ross die (adjusted for shoulder length) produces a case ready to trim and fire-form.

300 WM brass seems to offer the best combination of availability, price, and shoulder position of the parent case. 

Please post the results of your own case-forming experiences.

--Bob





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duckcreekdick
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« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2017, 08:49:13 AM »

Fellow .280 Ross reloaders:
     Here is my formula for forming .280 Ross cases from .375 Ruger cases using Imperial Sizing Wax.

1. Use a .348 Winchester FL die w/o the stem to size the neck down to the shoulder of the .375 Ruger case.
2. Use a .280 Ross FL die w/o the stem, backed off 1/16" from the shellholder and resize.
3. Resize again, as above, but with the shellholder contacting the bottom of the die.
4. Trim to 2.600 and deburr.
5. Resize again with the expander stem in the FL die and check to see if the cases chamber in your rifle.
 
     Following this procedure I lost only one case out of the 50.  I annealed the case necks and shoulders afterwards.  Fired cases look wonderful and do not show that ugly bulge you get forward of the belt by using .300 H&H or .375 H&H brass.
     I have tried several powders and bullet makes and weights in my rifle but have settled on the following load.  55 gr. of IMR 4350, Federal 210 primer and a Hornady 175 gr. spire point, seated to 3.500" COL.  Velocity averages out to 2557fps with groups running about 1" at 65yds.  My rifle has a 6X Weaver and a somewhat frosty bore but still shoots quite well.  I plan to take it deer hunting this coming Fall.
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pitted bore
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« Reply #8 on: May 17, 2017, 03:22:14 PM »

duckcreekdick-
Thank you for an informative post.  It's too bad that the thread linked in my January post above was lost in the forum crash.

Are you using 375 Ruger brass (Hornady #8673, for example) or the 375 Ruger Basic Brass (Hornady #8674)?

--Bob

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Ken T
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« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2017, 01:31:18 PM »

I just got in a box of .375 Ruger brass and formed one case to see how it would work.I don't have .348 Winchester dies so I used an 8X68S die with the expander removed to take the neck down then ran the case thru the Ross dies and trimmed.I used the expander for a .284 bullet and made a dummy round.The round chambered and extracted well in the rifle I tried it in.I need to dig out my other Ross and check the round in it and then get to work.
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